How to Frame and Hang an Oil Pastel Art Print Safely

Quick answer

Frame your oil pastel art print with a mat and UV-protective glass or acrylic, using archival materials and a frame that gives the paper room to breathe. Hang it out of direct sunlight with two hooks spaced wider than the frame, and check level after a week. This protects the surface and keeps the print straight without damaging the paper.

Choose the right frame and mat for an oil pastel print

Oil pastel prints on matte photo paper need a frame that holds the paper flat without pressing on the image. Pick a frame with a rabbet depth of at least 3/4 inch so the mat, print, and backing fit comfortably. A mat does two jobs: it keeps the glass off the print surface and gives the eye breathing room. For an 8x10 in print, a 2-inch mat border looks balanced; for an 11x14 in print, a 2.5- to 3-inch border works well. Use an acid-free mat and backing board. If you skip the mat, make sure the print does not touch the glass—moisture can cause the ink to stick.

• Avoid frames with deep, ornate lips that cast shadows on the artwork.
• Check that the frame's backing is acid-free; corrugated cardboard is not.
• If reusing a frame, clean it and replace old backing with archival board.

Prepare the print and assemble the frame without smudging

Work on a clean, dry surface. Handle the print by its edges only, or wear cotton gloves. Oil pastel prints can smudge if you touch the image, even after printing. Place the print face-up on the backing board, then position the mat over it. Use a couple of pieces of acid-free linen tape to hinge the print to the backing—attach the tape to the back of the print, not the front. This keeps the print from shifting while allowing it to expand and contract with humidity. Lower the glass into the frame, then the matted print, then the backing. Secure the backing with glazing points or flexible tabs, not staples that can pierce the print.

• Never spray glass cleaner directly on the frame; spray a cloth first.
• If using acrylic glazing, peel the protective film from both sides.
• Do not use double-sided tape or glue directly on the print.

Hang the frame so it stays straight and safe

Use two hooks or nails spaced wider than the frame—about one-third in from each side—to distribute weight and resist tilting. For drywall, use self-drilling anchors rated for at least twice the frame's weight. For plaster, drill pilot holes to avoid cracks. Hang the frame so the center of the artwork is at eye level, typically 57–60 inches from the floor. If hanging above furniture, leave 6–10 inches between the bottom of the frame and the furniture top. After hanging, check level with a spirit level. Wait a week, then check again; humidity and settling can shift the frame.

• Avoid hanging on exterior walls that get direct sun or temperature swings.
• Use picture wire only if it is rated for the weight and attached to two points.
• For heavy frames, use two D-rings and a taut wire, not a single nail.

Protect the print from light, moisture, and dust

UV-protective glass or acrylic slows fading, but no glazing blocks all UV. Keep the print out of direct sunlight and away from damp rooms like bathrooms unless the print is sealed. If you live in a humid climate, add a silica gel packet behind the backing (not touching the print) and check it yearly. Dust the frame with a dry microfiber cloth; avoid liquid sprays that can seep behind the glass. For long-term storage, keep the print in its protective sleeve and backing board in a cool, dry place.

• Rotate prints seasonally to limit light exposure on any one piece.
• Avoid hanging prints above radiators or heat sources.
• If the print is signed on the back, note the signature location before framing.

Step-by-step framing and hanging process

1. 1. Gather materials and check the print: You need an acid-free mat, backing board, UV-protective glass or acrylic, frame, acid-free linen tape, glazing points, and hanging hardware. Unpack the print and inspect for any smudges or bends before framing. Checkpoint: If the print arrived damaged, contact the seller before framing.
2. 2. Assemble the frame with a mat: Place the print face-up on the backing board, position the mat, and hinge the print to the backing with two small pieces of acid-free tape on the back. Stack glass, matted print, and backing into the frame. Mistake to avoid: Do not tape the front of the print or use masking tape, which yellows and fails.
3. 3. Secure the backing: Press the backing down gently and insert glazing points or flexible tabs every 3–4 inches around the frame. Do not over-tighten; the print needs slight room to move. Checkpoint: The print should not rattle when you shake the frame lightly.
4. 4. Mark and install hanging hardware: Measure the frame width, mark two points one-third in from each side, and install hooks or anchors rated for twice the frame's weight. Use a level to align the marks. Mistake to avoid: Hanging from a single center hook causes tilting and stress on the frame.
5. 5. Hang and level the frame: Hang the frame on the two hooks, check level, and adjust as needed. Wait one week, then recheck level and hardware tightness. Checkpoint: If the frame tilts, add a small piece of museum putty to the bottom corners.

Product facts

• Oil Pastel Sassy Pigeon | Art Print: Oil Pastel Sassy Pigeon | Art Print is available in 11x14 in, 8x10 in, 5x7 in, and 4x6 in sizes, printed on high-quality matte photo paper, hand-signed on the back, and packaged in a protective sleeve with backing board. The matte paper surface is prone to smudging, so handle by edges and use a mat to keep glass off the print. The included backing board can be reused as a stiffener during framing.
• Oil Pastel Wine and Charcuterie | Art Print: Oil Pastel Wine and Charcuterie | Art Print is available in the same four sizes and shares the same paper, signature, and packaging details. Because the print is hand-signed on the back, avoid covering the back with permanent tape or adhesive; use removable hinges so the signature stays visible if you reframe.